No Huế!

I believe it is safe to say we have officially entered the rainy season here in Da Nang.  Yesterday we woke up late because for the first time, the sun wasn't penetrating through every window.  Until now, we have had scattered showers in the evening and at night, but yesterday, it rained all.  Day.  Today the clouds look pretty doom-ish as well.  Nothing stops in Vietnam during the rainy season.  We are armed with ponchos, umbrellas and raincoats and they are used in that order.  If anything, the rain calms the traffic slightly and cools the air, so our season to come is bitter sweet.  I have to say I’m looking forward to feeling 65 degrees (F) at some point.

Paul and I took a moto trip to Hue (pronounced hway) last weekend.  At first I was going to ride my moto as well but I’m really glad I didn’t.  Hue is about 95km north of Da Nang through differing elevations and small towns.  The air was spitting a bit when we left home and by the time we reached Hai Van Pass, fog and rain clouded much of our vision.  Paul is fortunately a very advanced rider with years of experience, so all I had to do was hold on!  Entering Hue, we checked into a nice hotel and had a much needed coffee overlooking the Perfume River.  I had never been to Hue so we took the bike around the city, scoping out historical buildings and parks.  Hue used to be the capital city of Vietnam, so its tree lined boulevards bring a much felt regality to the citadel region. 

We eventually ended up at a pagoda built over four hundred years ago called the Thien Mu Pagoda.  The views from this serene spot are nothing short of calendar worthy.  Within the compound, there are many resident monks living out their daily lives despite visitors strolling through their grounds.  I felt slightly invasive walking around these peaceful men who seem to not notice us, but at the same time I felt a calm and a peace.  I was trying to emit as many respect vibes as possible, sometimes simply sitting on the ground or a rock, enjoying a fleeting glimpse into their lives.  These monks, like most other young boys, enjoy activities like hacky sack (they call it đá cầu) and football.

Later on we met up with one of Paul’s friends who is a Hue native and fluent in English.  He showed us a fun street-side place to have some brew and chat into the night.  After a few Hudas (Hue beer), I was feeling quite relaxed and less resistant to the squat toilet that I knew was in my immediate future.  Although Hue is more of a backpacker’s destination than Da Nang, foreigners are still subject to frequent stares and attention from locals.  We almost don’t notice it anymore, unless something worth staring at happens, which was also in my immediate future. 

I made my way to the toilets in the back of the seating area as two other girls did the same.  When the first young girl came out of the stall, the second graciously insisted I go ahead of her.  I made my way in and expertly pulled off the squat technique despite being quite buzzed.  On my way out of the toilet area, my care free mental state caused me to forget the first rule of wearing Old Navy flip flops on wet flooring.  Down one step and VOMP! Over I spilled onto a floor wet with, well, I’d rather not wonder.  The tables closest to the toilet areas were sporting priceless looks of amusement and surprise at my misfortune.  I had expected my two bathroom buddies to react the same way for this silly foreigner on the floor – quite the contrary.  In a flash, my Vietnamese sisters rushed over, helped me up and checked my arm and leg which were sure to bruise.  After thanking them, I walked gracefully and confidently back to my table, flashing a big grin and thumbs up to my spectators on the way.  Our fun night continued on, thankfully, without incident.

The next day, we traveled back to Da Nang with clear and cloudy beautiful skies. 

While at work on Monday, I received two distress texts from my roommate, Stacey. 

“Pleaseeee ring me ASAP!”

Figuring there was some sort of authority or non-English speaking person at our house, I quickly rang her to find out that this was not the case at all.  Her words could barely keep up with her thoughts at the retelling of an incident that had just occurred at the bay by our house.  As Stacey has not yet started working for our English school, she has taken up a daily read by the bay or the beach.  There is a long stretch of concrete that lines the bay and sometimes there will be sets of stairs that recede into the sand from where you park your moto.  On this particular outing, Stacey was perched on the wall near the stairs reading, and keeping an eye on her moto.  Suddenly, a Vietnamese gentleman sauntered down the stairs, smiling at her and disappearing around the stairway into the sand.  This was strange, as there are many unoccupied areas to spend your time by the bay.  Surely her mind never left his presence on the other side of the stairs.  After a short while, her reading was again interrupted by his head popping up from behind the stairs with a most amused grin on his face.  Stacey could no longer ignore this visitor as he stepped away from the stairs to reveal the reason for his amusement. 

“NOOOO! Oh my God!”

Stacey has never been a particularly fast driver until this day.  Pulling her helmet on quick, off she sped on her white scooter back home to ring me.  I think it’s safe to say our bay visits will be together from now on.  Vietnam, especially Da Nang, is one of the safest places I have ever lived.  Anywhere in the world, there will always be a percentage of the exception.  Today, Stacey found Da Nang’s.