So close, yet worlds away

Hoi An

One of the reasons I appreciate and love DaNang so much is the absence of tourism.  The “ugly tourist attitude” hasn’t totally tainted how these locals feel about seeing a westerner in their city, so there are many more smiles and gestures of warm acceptance than in other cities on the coastal circuit.  Seeing another westerner on a daily stroll in my neck of the woods is like seeing a two headed giraffe – it just doesn’t happen.  So it’s interesting how all of that will change 28km south in the bustling tourism hotspot of Hoi An. 

Yes, that passenger is wearing a helmet.

For some DaNang locals, going to Hoi An is equivalent to going on holiday: a trip reserved for once or twice a year.  For Bonnie and me, it was a hot bus ride day trip.  Some might call us ballsy for taking the bus, but it really wasn’t bad at all.  When the time came to pay for our ride, I was grateful to have an experienced partner in crime who stood her ground on how much we would pay.  My quick spy glances taught me that locals pay 15,000 dong and stories have been told of some tourists being duped into shelling out upwards of 50,000 dong for the same service!  Bonnie was firm.  We paid 20,000 dong each ($1).  Word.

Hoi An, despite her rampant tourism, is quaint and beautiful.  Down the myriad small streets and riverfront, you’ll find cute cafes, shops and TAILORS.  A single article of clothing will never be displayed in various sizes, oh no.  You pick out a jacket/pants/dress/full blown suit, they take your measurements and then they make it - sometimes within the same day!  “What time you leave?” is a well-known English question and it’s incredible how quickly they can turn over a purchase.  Since there are also very good tailors in DaNang, I skipped most of these options…except for one. 

Custom.  Made.  High top.  Sneaks.

I was first alerted of this incredible footwear ability from a traveling blogger named Kate (who sadly lost her custom sneaks in a crazy Indonesian shipwreck fiasco!) www.adventurouskate.com 

So anyway I picked every color, quality of material, and the shop owner even embroidered some fancywork on the side.  Two days.  $50.  Done. 

While on a café break from this very hot, sunny day, I found myself in a smiling pity for a poor girl sitting near me who had a very obvious sunburn.  Taking this as my cue to re-apply my spf armor, I confidently made my way into the bathroom to meet a startling reflection – my face, arms and back were also a very flattering lobster red!  Can’t wait to show off this complexion in DaNang!

Before leaving, we were also able to visit a shop that I had researched which employs Vietnamese citizens with disabilities and sells the unique and skillful art that they produce.  Metalwork, jewelry, lanterns, stationary and beautiful stuffed animals were only some of the pieces lining their walls and shelves.  We were invited into the workshop to meet the studio artists and I was able to sign my gratitude from one artist to another with a few of the metalworkers.  Couldn’t resist a hand-sewn water buffalo – it was the first animal that I was in awe of while traveling through Vietnam. 

So with the full day considered, yes, you will be addressed with “madam, come buy something?” quite often while strolling through this ancient town, but a great deal of beauty and culture will also be appreciated and enjoyed.  Many of the services and products for sale are actually worth purchasing or at least investigating.  Hoi An, translated as “peaceful meeting place,” was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and one of the only areas in Vietnam that wasn't totally destroyed and rebuilt after the various wars and foreign colonization/influences.  

After another quick and bumpy bus ride, Bonnie and I were sun drained, but relieved to be back in home sweet DaNang. No moto yet, but today I found a house and I’m super psyched to move in next week.  Photos to definitely follow that blessed event.